|HometownNaples, Italy||SpecialtyHand Printed, Handmade Ties||Est.1914|
For the past 100 years, Marinella’s philosophy, handed down from father to son, is to remain humble in life and to maintain a timeless style. This is reflected in their designs, keeping to Italian tradition of a classic aesthetic and vigorously safeguarding their high-quality standards.
Marinella produces its products by hand in Italy, whilst using handprinted fabrics from England to create its unique, timeless, crafted pieces.
Since 1914, they have sourced the finest fabrics from England. For many decades partnering with English mills that exclusively handprint each fabric for the E. Marinella collection. This process is called silk screening, which has been done for many centuries. Unlike many companies, Marinella print the fabrics for their ties by hand, which is easily visible from the back due to the paint being fully absorbed into the fabric. This painstaking process is done with precision and care. Once the process is completed, each finished printed roll of fabric is shipped to Naples, Italy where it is carefully checked to ensure superior quality prior to cutting in the Marinella “laboratorio”.
THE MAKING OF E.MARINELLA SILK
E.Marinella has drawn inspiration from the English gentlemen since its inception, their collection of English silk is printed exclusively for E.Marinella by keeping its tradition of the classic aesthetic of ties.
The journey of silk originates from China, where raw silk is produced, having the color of ivory. The silk is then shipped to the UK, where an extra washing process is performed using water from a local lake. What makes these English silks so exquisite is the unusual sheen, impossible to obtain with modern technologies, due to the wash of its rich minerals from the water of its surrounding terrain. For more than 400 years this famous silk factory has utilized this unique wash for its silks giving not only a unique feel, but providing great durability within its fibers.
The original catalogue of prints have been produced by the silk factory since 1722, and its machinery dates back to the Victorian era. As a result, the entire process cannot be fully automated, meaning the skills and expertise of craftsmanship must be ever-so present. The patterns printed are carefully recreated by skilled workers and handpicked by Maurizio Marinella, for a totally Italian style. He is present during this particular point of the process, adding his personal Neapolitan touch.
Once agreed on a pattern, it is finally carved on the silk printing screens by means of a wax injector. Dyes are then mixed manually to obtain its rich combination of colors, which initiates this laborious process, demanding extreme accuracy and constant monitoring. A single pattern can run up to 8 screens, and if a screen is unaligned for a fraction of millimeter, then the entire print-run is compromised.
The skillset needed for this process requires a high level of accuracy, perfected after years of experience. Two people are responsible for silk-screen printing, facing each other through the whole process of making silk. Even their weight and height can affect this process to balance the work table because too much weight could impact the pressure exerted from the printing machine.
The “printer” supervises the whole process by using “precision grader” – paddle with a sponge – by wiping from one side to the other to push the dye into the silk. Both people must gradually shift the loom, frame, and screen on the table, reaching a length of 22 meters. Every “sponge wipe” needs to be identical from the previous one – even a slight shift could jeopardize the entire process. Once printed, the silk is heated with steam to set the colors and “tap” the silk to soften its fibers for that smooth touch.